How to tile a wall
Tiling is not complicated – but it does take time, patience and attention to detail. You also need to make sure you have the right tools to hand to avoid unnecessary hold ups or mistakes.
We’ve put together a very basic guide of how to tile a flat, simple shaped area in your home. If ever in doubt please ask a professional!
Before you start
Measuring
You will need:
- Tape Measure
- Pen + paper
Before you do anything you need to make sure you have the right amount of tiles!
Measure the height and width of your space in metres, then multiply them together to get the area in m2. It is this m2 figure you need to use to order your tiles.
Always add 10% - 15% for cutting and wastage. If for example your area is 10m2, order 11 or 11.5m2 of tiles to ensure you have enough.
If your space is not a regular shape, split the area into a number of rectangular shapes and then measure each space individually – calculate the m2 for each one and then add them together to get your total.
If you are planning a patterned design, you’ll need to work out what you want the pattern to look like and how many of a given design/ décor/ colour you will need of each tile. (We can help at this stage – please contact us for help with any queries about colours or if you’re undecided about what ratio of pattern you might like)
Knowing your total m2 will also let you order the correct amount of adhesive as the exact amount they cover is stated on the container or bag
Preparing
You will need:
- Stiff Brush
- Scraper
- Specialist surface primer or PVA adhesive + paint brush
Once you have all your tiles and are ready to get going, you need to prepare the area you will be tiling.
Make sure the surface is flat, firm, dry and free from any grease – you’ll need to have scraped off any old wall paper, crumbling plaster or remaining tile adhesive. It’s essential that any damp or decay is repaired first as this cannot be done once the tiles are set.
Ensuring the area is clean and dry means that your tiles will remain stuck to the wall for good and you’re not risking them slipping out of place later down the line.
Prime the area either with a specialist primer or a PVA adhesive diluted with water – make sure whatever you use is dry before you start tiling
Tiling
Fixing
You will need:
- Notched spreader
- Adhesive suitable for your tiles
- Tile spacers
- Flat bed tile cutter
- A tile saw or wet tile cutter
- 50mm x 25mm plain softwood baton (if the surface you are tiling above is not level and flat)
- Screwdriver suitable for plug socket plates
Before you start, check that your adhesive is the correct adhesive for your tiles – ready mix is fine for ceramic tiles but you’ll need to use the powdered adhesive for porcelain tiles
If you’re tiling between 2 walls, always start from the centre point and work outwards – this means that the tiles at either end will be the same size even if you have to cut them. You don’t want to end up with wonky sized tiles on an otherwise perfectly symmetrical wall.
If you’re tiling from a fixed object (eg a cupboard) out towards a wall then work from the fixed object towards the wall. This means that the tiles against the cupboard will be straight whilst those at the wall will be cut or staggered.
Ideally your kitchen worktop or surface is flat and level – in which case you can simply start tiling from the surface along and upwards.
If it slants or is in any way not level, you’ll need to fix a baton to the wall just above the surface to ensure that the bottom line you start from is level. Once you’ve done this initial row of tiles against the baton, you can remove it and cut tiles to the correct shape to fit below, where your tiles end up meeting the uneven surface.
Apply adhesive to wall using your notched spreader. Only apply enough to fix 4 or 5 tiles at a time – never apply more than one m2 of adhesive at a time as it will start to dry more quickly than you can fix the tiles.
Press your tiles in firmly and make sure you put a tile spacer in between each tile as soon as it is in place. Make sure you press the tile spacers well in to the adhesive otherwise they will show through the grout once you have finished.
Try to fix as many whole tiles as possible before you move on to the cut tiles and fiddly bits.
Clean off extra adhesive from the tile surfaces and in between them as you go – this means you can wipe it off whilst it is still tacky rather than trying to scrape it off once it is dried.
Cutting a neat edge
First, measure how much you need to cut off the tile to make a neat edge. Using that measurement, place the tile in your flat bed tile cutter and score the glazed top of the tile, position the line over the pressure point and push down firmly – the tile should snap exactly where you have made the scored line.
Tiling around fiddly bits
If you’re tiling a kitchen you are likely to need to make an L shaped cut to fit the tile around your power points, plugs etc… You can do this with either a wet tile cutter (specialist equipment which you may have to hire) or a with simple tile saw.
Mark out the cut you need to make using a pencil. Score the lines using your flat bed tile cutter and then cut along one of those lines with your saw – you can then use the flatbed tile cutter to cut the other line. (you can use the hand saw for both but the tile cutter just makes it easier)
Make sure the power point is turned off at the mains before you begin tiling around a power point. Remove the screws and ease the plate forwards so that you have space to work behind. You’ll need to apply adhesive to the back of the tile and then slide it into position. Put the plug face back in place and gently screw it in – fully tighten the screws only once the adhesive has completely set (you may need longer screws).
Grouting
You will need
- Squeegee or a grout float
- Grout finishing tool
Check the adhesive packaging for a rough guide as to how long it will take to set – it can be up to 24 hours and you don’t want to start grouting until the adhesive is completely dry.
Whether you’re using the powdered variety or a pre-mixed brand, grouting is always messy! Use plastic sheeting on surfaces under and around the tiled area to prevent stray grouting getting stuck where you don’t want it.
Place a small amount of the grout onto the surface you’re working on and press it firmly into every nook and cranny between the tiles.
Allow about 15 minutes for the grout to dry before cleaning the tile surface with a damp sponge – keep the sponge clean as you’re wiping otherwise you will end up spreading the grout around rather than lifting it off the tiles.
Once all the grout is dry between the tiles, give the area a really good polish with a dry clean cloth to remove any residual grout powder and really bring out the shine.
